Being of Service

I spent several hours helping my friends get things packed up in their swanky apartment so they can jet out to Thailand in a few days.

Aside from the general fact that I'm always happy to help a friend, it felt surprisingly great just to be of some use.

Although I love my job, it really is pretty easy. I am teaching kids how to chat casually in my native language. Mostly they learn the hard stuff from their Korean teachers- I would say I remind them of grammar and vocabulary more than I teach it. My function is to push their best pronunciation and make conversations start for them. It ain't hard. As someone recently put it, I'm just a little bonus for financially set children attending extracurricular classes at an academy which doesn't even assign real grades.
I'm lagniappe.

And with my new schedule, most classes will only be 20 minutes long. It's underwhelming, to be sure.

So, yeah- putting some other skills to the test and rolling up my sleeves felt terrific.
Plus, I got to bring home a few goodies.
Win-win.

Anywho, Christmas was lovely. Lots of good homecooking and a little gathering here at the apartment- cozy. It even snowed all night. I do believe this counts as my first real white Christmas!

And my buddy TMZ is back in town: Well, back in country, anyway-- so it gives me an excuse to trek over to Busan for a weekend soon... which has been on the to-do list since I landed here. It's a big city on the beach. What's not to like?

Hmmmmm..... now to grade some papers and try to sleep; in the morning I've promised to take myself to the dentist to check on a toothache... but I've broken that promise a few times this week, so I can't really be trusted.

sigh : )

drills were cool. everything's cool. no more worrying for now.

(thanks for the card, mike and janet... made my day)

a spoonful of peace for the end of the year. good, good.

what is holly? my students inquire.
i explained the mistletoe tradition and they all looked disgusted.

they're getting fidgety now. these poor kids never get a break. it's christmas: have a saturday off school. they are stinkin' smart, though. their brains are well exercised and fine tuned, and growing. but still...
so i'm planning on preparing some christmas gifts for them. either something tiny for everyone or something a bit cool as a prize for whoever gives the best presentation each class. something wrapped and shiny, either way.

tonight i think we'll be making cookies; kevin and i.

this time of year often brings memories of childhood around to the front. i think of my grandparents' home in texas, and all the pine trees i counted on the way there.
i think of lying on the concrete slab in the back yard with mom, watching a sky full of stars. i never see stars these days. not like those, for certain.
christmas eve was the only day of the year that my sister and i would sleep in the same bed. we'd listen for bells and hooves on the roof, and we heard them most years.

i must admit, i'm really missing the excitement surrounding the holiday this year. it's coming, and i see it, but i don't feel it yet. but, like i said, tonight- we'll make cookies. i'll tape the christmas cards we've received on the doorframe, and play our new christmas cd, drink hot chocolate, and see if we hold any influence over the weather.

Season's Greetings

It's been nice lately. Very nice.

The weather's cold, so I'm wearing 4 layers (bayou wuss). There have been a few occasions of flurries, which are little reminders that snow is on its way someday. There are Christmas trees and Christmas music sprinkled around town, especially in and around the coffee shops.(The coffee shops here are something to behold: I have a superb business plan for my own lil' shop back in the states now... and it does include tree-house-like rooms.)

Work has been particularly awesome. My later/older classes have been temporarily suspended for an intense study session, so for about three weeks I've only had to be at work from 2-7. The bosslady assigned some extra work in their absence, but it's really fun, creative work, like reading books and making questions to go with them for the advanced classes. I reread Animal Farm and am now on The View From Saturday and I'm loving it. Reading has always been a passion of mine, but since school's been over for me I don't often allow myself the quiet alone time to get many books in.
So, point is, this job rocks.
And, it goes without saying, the kids I teach continue to be funny and adorable and surprising every day.

Our good friends, Heather and Ian, are about to head out on a new adventure and leave Korea for a while. We are sad that they are going, but plan to spend quality time together until they leave, and will have some new things to cozy-up the apartment from their plush palace ; )... a bookshelf, a toaster oven, lamps, etc. It'll make the winter seem miles away once we get the cave all set up and the floor heaters cranked up high. We plan to just chill here at home with our friends for Christmas, and Kevin's making stuffed cabbage!

We made a funny new friend at Song's the other day- named Sang-Jae. He's 54, speaks decent English, and is an excellent story-teller. He had us in stitches, talking about the girlfriend he just broke up with and life in general. He is a big fan of music, and gave me lots of encouragement and requested some songs I was able to figure out on the spot cause they were old favorites of my mother's, and that felt pretty super. He says he'd like to take us somewhere sometime; show us some real Korean treasures. We shook hands on it- I hope to see him again, and Kevin says he'll have his camera next time.

There are about 3 months left on this contract, and I have one foot on a decision, but the other is hung up on the fence. As things are looking, I won't be re-signing but Kevin will. That's not definite: not anymore than anything in the world is. But that's the way it's looking.
I would love to stay, I like it here. And I'm not exactly running home in fear. I believe that if there is a war, it'll likely be a fizzle of a war, and then reunification will happen, and it'll all be grand, grand. But there is that chance... and that chance has pushed me into thinking a lot about what ELSE I might want to do, and as a result the old brain is truly gearing up for some cool stuff. As always, when put in a corner, this kid can come up with brilliant ways to slip out.

Currently, I'm thinking of returning home to concentrate on finishing a book or two and trying to get published. I will also drive across the country to visit with friends who've moved around... Reconnect and take a minute to experience a wide variety of lifestyles, from New York to Cali, maybe even Hawaii (wink!)

Leaving Kevin here will be a little heartbreaking, because I love his company so much, but we both agree it'd be a positive experience for us both, and we both want to concentrate on creating our thangs.... See, we're both pouring over with creative ideas for art, stories, and projects of all sorts; but then we're both easily distracted by having general fun together, so it's hard to focus on being productive. Spending serious time apart is hopefully going to allow us to focus on our own goals.

My boss wants me to stay. She took me out to dinner last week as planned to calm my fears regarding war... and brought a date. We had a terrific time: Ate at an American style buffet and met with Kevin at the German Bar. We played music (the date was a great musician, and funny, too).... ended up at Michelle's making requests but only hearing hair-bands. However, no one really discussed the 'situation'. (And by that, I don't mean the bad music.)

Granted, the lack of further provocation has done its own job of calming my concerns, but here's the thing: Just as I was settling back in to the lovely life here, in the news today it says another live-fire drill is scheduled on Yeonpyeong Island. This is South Korea holding it's bruised chin high and daring North Korea to hit it again.
They will be shooting into the water, not toward NK-- just like last time.
They are holding a routine drill; NK has seen this before and should not be upset-- just like last time.
Kim Jong-Il visited the artillery base that attacked the island a few days before the firing last time, and the news says he visited an "unspecified" artillery base today...
The drill will happen sometime between Saturday and Tuesday.

So, there's that.

But overall, it's a gorgeous winter day in Gwangju. It's Friday! I'll finish work early, do some reading, have a delicious dinner with my favorite person and maybe some others I like, and who knows what fun the weekend will hold.
Then, in a week....Crimbus!!!!

Here's a quote for the day:

“There are no strangers here; Only friends you haven’t yet met.”

- William Butler Yeats

Status Quo

Hi, all. I'm Wendy. Let me tell you about my status quo.

I have been SO tense regarding all the hostility and threats of war from the north. Sunday, when the U.S. and SK began their big drill in the Yellow Sea, I couldn't imagine sticking around to see the outcome. I packed my baby blue three-piece luggage set until their square sides had love handles, and I researched the shortest flight out of Busan.

Then I sat around and waited painfully for a good enough reason to follow my fear to the airport.

Nothing happened.

Lots of talk happened. But nothing to allow me to run without regret for my haste.
I've been talking to everyone about the war; foreigners and locals, ages 11 to 65. And I'm the ONLY person who seems genuinely scared. I mean, a few people in the mix thought all-out war MIGHT be possible, but that even in that scenario, my city would be untouched.

I'm not convinced. I keep comparing the attitude here to that of cajuns when a hurricane is headed in. It's an excuse to throw a party, right? And sure- a lot of times that works out fine. Great memories are made and you get pictures of Cousin Benny that you can blackmail him with in a few years. But then, every once in a while, you get Katrina. Or Rita. Or Gustav. And then, you're not in the party mood.

Meanwhile, we recently agreed to stay here for a second year, though we still have 4 months left on this contract. We were certainly looking forward to that- and to the new apartments we'd receive. However, the increased tensions between North and South Korea may very well be just a part of the ebb and flow here, but I'm not from here, and I don't think I will ever get used to it.

I remember as a kid how funny it was to catch an out-of-towner's reaction whenever our nuclear plant ran it's monthly test on the emergency siren. We learned to tune it out. We certainly didn't associate the sound with any thoughts of melt-downs or mass death. How could we live there if we thought like that?

I wish now that that I could find a website where you can enter a scenario and calculate its probability. I would enter 'nuclear plant explosion' and 'North/South Korea explosion'. I wonder.

Anyway, in light of my changed level of comfort and, therefore, desire to stick around much longer, I thought i should talk to my boss and reverse our previous decision.
I asked her to come into my room for a private conversation, and I said, "Do you know what a hurricane party is?" and continued to explain my strange reaction to the goings-on.

Now, Koreans are quick to smile and giggle. And my boss does find me particularly amusing and witty, so I make her laugh often. But I have never seen her laugh this hard. She had to compose herself after.
She tried explaining to me that the threat isn't real, and it's all just a political play. I'm hearing it a lot. But I'm not buying into it easily.
She and I will meet Sunday to discuss it all.

I doubt Kevin will join us. He's had it up to here (and he's pretty tall) with hearing me try to convince people they should be at least a little alarmed, too. And let me tell you, I HATE feeling like a weirdo or a wuss because I am wary of the situation. I hate it.
But at the same time, no one is really making fun of me or being cruel. (My boss even apologized for her laughter) In fact, everyone is trying to comfort me and make me feel at ease.

I suppose it's working a little... a tiny, tiny bit. This much * .

Anyway, later, when I entered my boss' room for my session with her class, all the students screamed in unison, "DON'T BE SCARED, WENDY TEACHER!!!"
Which was cute.
Then several continued with their own 'comforting' phrases, some of which went astray:
"We will all die TOGETHER!"
and
"Don't worry! I will hold your hand if BOMB!"

Ah, sweet people. Sweet, sweet people.
I will miss them.

north korea. war. you know?

i learned about this attack on south korea during class yesterday. the students told me. these 12 year olds had seen reports on the internet, and began explaining the situation to me in english. this was the first their korean teacher had heard of it, as well- and she looked more surprised than i felt. i guess north korea doing something crappy without provocation just fits their profile. like these guys say (http://edition.cnn.com/2010/OPINION/11/23/carroll.cirincione.korea/index.html?hpt=C1)
in fact, the korean teacher's look of surprise may have been more related to them telling me their news instead of her.

they explained that north korea had fired at pyongyang island, and that south korea was fighting back. they didn't seem frightened at all, but asked me if i was. i answered honestly, not yet.

throughout the remaining 4 hours of classes, several more students brought up the fight- every time with a look of confidence and eagerness. then, "teacher, are you scared?" like they're just empathetic for my plight as a foreigner. one student i'm quite fond of said hello as he passed me in the hallway then spun around, stretching a hand out toward me, remembering something, "oh, wendy teacher! north korea. war. you know?" it was delivered like "oh, wendy teacher! my birthday. tomorrow. you know?"
yes, i heard, i told him. ah, good, he nodded- then spun back around with a tiny bow goodbye. i called his name, though, and asked him "are you scared?"
"no" he said, definitely.
"why not?" i asked.
he answered quickly and i think lazily.... if he hadn't been on his way to a class i'm sure i could have gotten a better response, but what he did say made me laugh anyway: shrugging his shoulders a bit, "because i'm children."

so, i gathered my important papers once i got home, and put them in a bag with some clothes, extra panties. i registered with the american embassy online. i felt worried last night. yes, this attack is no huge surprise... but it is a serious move on south korean civilians.

i guess as long as president lee myung-bak doesn't react like president bush might in this situation, but keeps the big picture in mind, things shouldn't escalate too badly for south korea.

more importantly, it is my hope that crazy old kim jung-il can keep it together. the condition of north korea is one giant appalling pity. but don't tell him i said so. it just makes him crazier.

i think everything will continue to be ok. i like it a lot here, and don't want to see these awesome people suffer any more war. nor do i want to have to go home under emergency circumstances. but i don't think things will come to that. i'm not scared yet. i'm just being cautious, and prepared.

and drinking coffee and listening to good music, getting ready for another exciting day of teaching cute little korean geniuses.

: ) saturdays

yet another best night of my life. goodness, goodness... the friends.

If you were curious...

After much indecision, when the day came, I went with the "stay" option. It was a tough choice to make; though not the toughest in the world, cause either side has lots of good points. But in case you were curious, these were my biggest reasons to stay one more year-

#1 Reason: I have both a job I truly enjoy and a bunch of free time with which to work on my projects. I have a new series of paintings ready to sploosh out of my head and onto a tangible surface, as well as a research/writing project I've quickly become rather deeply involved with. So, there's that.

#2 Reason: There's a bunch of exploring I can do easily here, and I intend to take advantage of that.

#3 Reason: Financially, it's the best move I could possibly make for right now.

#4 Reason: It sounded like a great way to spend my time as I concentrate on planning my next adventure.

Plus, I will definitely get 3-4 weeks vacation time between contracts to spend with my family and friends at home, and that's not too shabby. In fact, I can't really remember any time as an adult that I had 3 weeks for just visiting with my loved ones. There's always work to get back to. So this could be an awesome chance for some quality visits!

So, yeah. Now we're ready for the small adventure of a new apartment, coming soon. I'm looking forward to having my own space to decorate : )

Holiday!

It's Peppero Day in SK. For the folks back home, that means it's a day for eating cracker sticks dipped in chocolate and, if you're lucky, nuts. It's a little like Valentine's Day... thought they call that White Day, and the girls give the boys stuff, from what I understand. And there's Black Day, where single people sit alone and eat black noodles and sniffle. But today's not so much about the love, it's just about the food representing the date (11/11). Anyway, to celebrate the day in America, just give some edible pair of sticks to someone who makes you smile. Maybe a couple of string cheese sticks, or beef jerky, or corn dogs! Baguettes! OH! I got it: Those cracker sticks that come with processed cheese dip! And have a Happy Peppero Day!!!

Countdown to Decision 2011

So.

I used to have four months to decide whether or not I would choose to stay another year in Gwangju. That was yesterday. Today, I have one week.

Due to circumstances out of our control and changing situations expected from our school, we were asked to make a decision by the 12th, so that our boss can go to her boss and try to make sure we can be offered the contract.

What I'm saying is, we have to say "YES", so they can say "Maybe"...
Or we say "No" and go home in April.
And we have to say one or the other in a week or sooner.

Now, if we say YES and they say OK, then by the end of the month, we are granted new apartments that we've wanted for a while. (The boy and I love each other, but we also would love some elbow room)

And if I say NO, what then? What would I do next? I thought I'd have way more time to figure this out.

No, this is not a rhetorical question.

a saturday

last night, kevin and i hit downtown when classes were over. we ate sam-gyap at our usual spot, but tried the beef this time. our server struggled to teach us to be classy and taste the first cooked piece of this meat without the lettuce and extra stuff... seemed a lot like the head of the table sampling the first glass of wine before everyone is served. anyway, it was delicious, and we were feeling very ready for the weekend.... looking for a little trouble. we wandered the busy streets for a little while trying to decide where to go. i let an ajuma vendor talk me into buying a little $3 leather bracelet. kevin grabbed an ice-cream. we were on the club side of town, so we lingered in the streets watching all the people passing by excited to be out with their friends and dressed to kill. the moon was nearly full in a clear sky. a lot of the stores, restaurants, and hofs like to blare music on the streets to draw folks in, so if you keep walking, it sounds like changing the stereo. after turning down a quieter street, kevin pulled me back a few steps until we were directly in front of one shop playing an old jazz piece, and we danced in the street for a minute, under the fat moon. for lack of any plan, we wound up at the german bar, and were lucky to meet a new friend there right away who gave us good conversation for the duration of our evening. his name was cam, and he told us all about his travels and family and kept us laughing. of course, there was some karaoke and some music played before it was all over. it was a blast.

saturday morning, i was paying for the fun. i stayed in bed until 4 (though, to be fair, we didn't go to sleep until 5 or 6 am)... only to find a new refrigerator had been delivered without disturbing my slumber. our old one worked 3out of 7 days, and not on any regular schedule. plus it made the freakiest sounds. it appears the landlady took it upon herself (possibly after investigating the scary howling noises she'd heard coming from our floor) to make our lives a little better.
kevin took off to run some errands and i stayed behind watching 'flight of the conchords', then the landlady returned and retrieved me to go with her to her mother's house and pick up a television our school apparently purchased for us. the landlady has a great attitude, sense of humor, and loves to talk, so it seems not to bother her that i don't understand 90% of what she's saying.... but we both try pretty hard, so we have a little back and forth. example:
"korean, korean korean korean keb-bin korean korean?"
"no, kevin's not here. opsiyo."
"korean korean korean odie (this means 'where'!) korean korean"
"he went to eat"
she looks at me confused, then walks around my apartment looking for where our cable outlet is.
"korean korean korean"... she gestures for me to grab my keys, so i do, and follow her out, down to the basement, she grabs a small dolly, back up and out the gate,
"korean korean korean korean ama (this means 'mother') korean" point, smile, nod.
"we're going to your mother's house?"
"nay, mother house"
etc.
she's adorable, and i like her. wish i knew this language better by now. ah, well... maybe i'll get to the books again soon.
so we brought back her mother's big, heavy tv, and she helped me get it into the apartment then disappeared with a laugh down the hallway.
kevin got back soon after, and was excited to take me to yet another festival he'd stumbled upon. this was an art festival taking place at the river downtown. the bottom of the bridge was lined with art on both sides and at the fancy star-gate looking section of the bridge there was a stage where different musical acts were putting on a great show. we saw a full orchestra play some classical, followed by a five piece soft rock band using a mix of modern and traditional korean instruments, then an amazing drum troupe (now i want to learn the korean traditional drum!), and finally adorable little kids took turns singing with orchestra backing.
at one point, under the bridge, we came upon a big pile of wood and kevin was shocked, and told me when he was there earlier it was a piano, totally in tact. two young guys were hanging out nearby it, and we asked what happened. they told us it was a performance piece. they are doing it all over again tomorrow at 6: so we're going to try and make it. they let me grab hammer #5 as a souvenir.
shopping at homeplus for this and that... i got gloves in preparation for the bitter cold ahead, and we bought stuff to stick in the new fridge. then some kimbab and bi bim bop for dinner, followed by simpsons on the big happy tv at home.
it's already been a terrific weekend, and we still have a whole day to go.
and now, it's raining gently and kevin's snoring lightly; i think i'll sleep well.

Festivities and Precariousness

What have we been up to lately?

Festivals, for one thing. There have been a bunch of festivals here at the onset of fall, and they've involved lots of new foods, a sensational one-man ice-cream show, traditional Korean clothes and activities, a bowing lesson, a petting zoo, interactive art, dancing groups galore, performances I could only catch glimpses of through the crowds, fishing with strainers, fields of flowers, unbelievable cakes shaped like palaces, dragons, and such, and my favorite part- fireworks and carnival games in the streets. I won a plush heart by knocking over some cans from the kiddie spot.

Amidst the festivals, we also celebrated Kevin's 27th birthday with our closest friends here, some Mario Bros on Wii, and a handful of seedy establishments. Both branches of Jisan bought him a delicious cake from Paris Baguette, and his students made him cards and sang Happy Birthday.

Right before birthday time, Kevin's parents were visiting during our extended Chu-Seok vacation! It was so great to see them, and we made the absolute most of the visit, doing something new and exciting every day. It was refreshing to act like a tourist again, and so comforting to have some family around. We miss our loved ones something terrible, so this was much needed.

Yeah, it's been a great time lately. Lots of fun on the weekends, and lots of work during the week so that it goes by fast.

We've officially made it past the halfway mark here at the Jisan-Hangil Academy. It has been and continues to be a wonderful experience, full of positives! I enjoy my job, and feel good about the work I do here. I have more in my bank account than I believe I've ever had in the past. Gwangju is a fun and welcoming city with plenty I have yet to explore, but also little spots that make me feel at home. The apartment is becoming cozier with every passing week. Kevin is even liking his job more, and we've both made a few friendships that will last beyond our Asian time together.

The question remains, though: Will we sign on for a second year?

Just a month ago, we thought we'd made up our minds, and the answer was 'yes'. Then a week ago, with no factors changing except a big case of homesick, we switched to a definite 'no'.

So: Picture it-- since challenges are often compared to mountains, and we're halfway through this one, you can imagine us at the very top of a mountain, looking around for what to do for fun once we trek down.
But then, we can't decide-- and when you can't decide 'yes' or 'no', you're said to be on a fence, right?

So we're on fence on a mountain peak. Now that's a precarious situation if ever there was one. And that's kind of how I feel right now. I mean, all we have to do is simply climb down from the fence, on either side, really, and then just walk down the mountain- which will be much easier than it was going up- and even that wasn't very hard:
But at the moment, I'm a little overwhelmed up here...

Autumn? I hardly KNOW him!

I'm not accustomed to four seasons. From my experience, there's a really long, swampy summer, and then there's an equally long, surprisingly (surprising every time you touch the steering wheel, surprising every time you see your breath) cold winter with little or no snowfall to make up for it's harsh demeanor. These two might mention some other seasons as they pass each other coming and going, only if they're feeling chatty; and we take the plastic wrap off of another calendar and don't ask questions.

When I arrived here in April, Gwangju was late in shaking off the winter's chill. I donned my coat and scarf for a good few weeks, and kept the floor heater running all day. Soon, though, Spring caught up. Flowers and green things suddenly appeared against the grey city's construction and traffic flow. Ladies broke out their bright and high cut sundresses and children climbed out from their Kenny costumes. Then it was summer, and it was hot- let's not gloss over that fact. We complained about the heat. And yet, we were not cold; and that will be remembered soon enough as a fond memory, I'm sure. And now, timely as you please, it looks like Fall has arrived. This is weather perfection. Soon leaves will join in the fun, and the smell of the air will change: I cannot explain this, but I know it to be true. Today was September 12th; my sweet mother's 65th birthday (happy birfday, Mom)... the day felt around 73º, there was a kind amount of sun and constant cool breeze. Everyone was out, and they were all talking about the weather. At least, that's what I'll assume. I still don't know much Korean.

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Kevin and I had breakfast and pilsners around 3:00PM, at the Alleyway. Ian and Heather (an adorable Canadian couple we've met here) happened to join us, and it was a nice surprise, as that those two are al-right in my book. I then dashed to meet MiEun, my boss and buddy, in front of the YMCA. We bought cold lattes, and tickets for the 5:00 showing of Killers, then clothes shopped until the showtime: MiEun bought a sharp jacket. I helped her pick it out. The two of us have gone shopping together several times now, but I always feel guilty if I'm the one looking to buy, because I like to browse and think and compare and decide slowly- I enjoy the process. Whereas MiEun is the single most decisive person I've met in my life. I admire that. Anyway- the movie was kind of dumb but fun, and we had pasta afterward in a place decorated like the inside of Barbie's dreamhouse, then she had to go. We didn't get our fortunes read this time.... but as she pointed out, they always say the same things every time, anyway; which, by 8ball standards, would equal 'outlook not good' for her love life. It makes me so sad to see lovesick women... not so much because they don't have their love, as that the absence of someone they've never met is preventing them from truly enjoying what an awesome life they have.

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But I definitely digress.

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Point was- things are going swimmingly.

Kevin's parents are going to be here in just a few days- and we're anxious to have them here! We'll have 12 days off to play, and we have lots of ideas as to how we can spend our time.

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Meanwhile, I just completed my online TEFL course. I fooled around and lost track of time, and wound up in deep waters struggling to finish the thing before expiration. In order to truly focus on the 6 tests I was taking simultaneously, I moved into 'The Gramy Motel', just around the corner from our place, in order to work in seclusion and without distraction. The hotel was seedy as they come, but you know it only makes me love it more. And anyway, the plan worked- and though I got little sleep, I enjoyed the challenge a lot, and learned the material in the process (though I do want to keep studying to make sure I retain it). Now, I have a little bit of knowledge about what the heck I'm doing with these little communicators.

After the intense session was through, I was mentally and physically drained of every drop. I slept very well for many hours, and I must tell you I had a very long work dream. Throughout my adult life, work dreams have almost always been miserable experiences, if not simply unpleasant. I am running up and down flights of stairs, balancing heavy trays of drinks and food on both hands with my apron slowly sliding to the floor as customers are either being cruel or just taking all of my time and patience as I explain for a third time the only difference between the cheeseburger and the hamburger. However, I just experienced my first work dream featuring a large (much larger than reality) group of little koreans, and dude-- it was a blast! We were laughing and I was doing a good job teaching them, and they didn't want to leave for recess, and I didn't either, so we decided to play English games through the break. It was a glorious, glorious work dream. How bout them apples?!

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SIDENOTE: Previously, on Wendy's in South Korea-

I played guitar with Mr. Cho at Cafe Province for hours as Korean jazz talent, Youn Sun Nah, met with her fans. Then, this amazing local artist also wondered in (the one whose work I showed pictures of on FB already- female forms, sewn pictures on silk), and hung out with us. She even sketched me with my guitar. Fabulousness.

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But enough about me: let's talk about you! What have YOU been doing?

A Summer's Excerpt

So, suddenly, summer vacation once again exists. It is only a few days, but the break sounds lovely. Kevin and I were planning to explore Busan at this time originally, a rather large city by the sea, but for a few reasons we've decided instead to stick closer to home and maybe have daily excursions while saving money and allowing me more opportunity to catch up where I've been slacking in my studies. This means I have a to-do list for my vacation, and, if you are wondering, it looks something like this:

-Study Korean language (numbers, phrases of inquiry, places and people)

-Spend at least two hours each day on TEFL course

-Send 4th graders' letters to America (Include personal greetings to the grownups)

-Do something I haven't yet done each day

That last one was Kevin's brilliant idea to make our vacation interesting... Hopefully it will lead to new exciting stories soon to come... instead of something like "napped in new corner of the apartment"... "ate a new flavor of World Cone".... ; )

And anyway, last weekend was enough bliss to last me a while. We were treated to a bus ride, then a ferry ride to an island city called Wando which is just gorgeous. We made new friends, had a relaxing type of adventure, and I place this trip now high on the shelf of good memories. Come to think of it, I don't think I've ever had such a flawless day as this Saturday. It was warm but overcast so not too hot, and a kind sprinkle came and went with gentle rumbling. Craft hour, group net fishing, a million tiny crabs, tiny brown eggs on chopsticks, sunscreen, tourguides, bus singing, cool water, foot rinsing, a quick alley party, the prettiest kitchen window view ever. I got to know some new friends better. I got to meet some new people, four in particular, whom I seriously hope to keep in touch with. I swam in sparkling clear water. Above me was a giant shiny sky full of boastful clouds. Little islands and giant rocks surrounded me. Old wooden boats rocked pleasantly in the harbor, making little groans with the soft waves. In the starlight I heard stories from strangers. We talked about love, music, misconceptions, families, life in Korea, schools, politics, and bikes. Mostly, we laughed. I swam more. There was an otter spotting! It was just glorious.

Then, two nights ago, on a Wednesday, two teenagers helped me find my new friend and guitar sage, Mr. Cho, and his tea shop. It was small and dimly lit, smelling of incense. Eight guitars were sprawled around, an upright piano sat uncomfortably in the far corner feeling too fat for the joint. Mr. Cho ordered wings and noodles to be delivered. He took me next door and let me poke around the 100 yr. old house he is remodeling to move his business into. His woodwork is as beautiful as his songs. Mr. Cho indicated there were fish in a large, cloudy fish tank I almost kicked because it was hidden in the tall grass... but I have no doubt I will see them in two months' time swimming in a little pond once the grassy lot becomes a garden and the old shack becomes a beautiful teahouse filled with music. Ah, Korea- you don't play when it's time to get work done or make things pretty! I spent 4 hours there making and enjoying sweet music with Mr. Cho and 15 or so regulars and friends of his. His older brother, a jazz pianist, was equally impressive. A momma, a soon-to-be momma, their gents, four christians (my favorite in a fishing hat), two female artists, one interior designer and one painter, and a few older gentlemen made up the guest list-- and all we did was sing and play and eat a few pieces of chicken. Nice, nice.

It's all so nice sometimes.

lookit! videos, too! i'm purty advanced for a luzianna gal!

got a potato cooking...

it's 1:33 am, oh dear- how's time flying like this? almost another payday, too (woo-hoo)

that means we're hitting month 4? no way!

it's getting more and more fun, too. oh, and busy. i'm doing the online certification course-- although i really should spend more time on it as that it has an expiration date... but when i do get to it, i find it to be helpful for planning. i'm also taking a korean language course two days a week for 7 weeks... they call it beginner's but the teacher moves pretty quickly: fingers crossed that i can keep up.

also, summer semester just began, which means i have a few new classes and a slightly different schedule and new books to boot! today was the first day of that schedule and it was going so remarkably well, by the time i got to my final class i was all kinds of charged with energy and excitement for the lesson plan at hand... but this class happened to consist entirely of brand new students, and i think my energy level scared them more than a little. unfortunately, their somewhat frightened and somewhat bemused faces didn't dampen my teaching fit in the least, and i'm sure they'll be happy to see me on a more normal level on wednesday, anyway.

i've been able to be more social lately-- though i'm missing the german bar. i got in a trivia night, though, with a lovely group of ladies, and some one-on-two time in seoul with some friends from back home (you know, the fancy ones)... made a couple of korean friends, too, finally: helped one prepare for a big english debate (always feels cool to help out).... even made buddies with some local college students over dinner the other night, continued with them to the song room, then kevin wound up trying to carry the drunkest one home.... it was adorable.

and, of course, our new buddy tamara is keeping me all smiles-- shout out, tamz! : )

so it's a shortie- but there's your update, ya buggers. i'm going to eat my potato and call it a night.

*mwah*

on calculating the weight and mass of a mile

it's muggy enough in the apartment tonight that i am reminded of louisiana. outside it's raining a solid asian downpour, and i'm grateful that someone built a small lean-to with a tin roof right outside my window. i know i will sleep like a baby with this lullaby.

meanwhile, we're trying to eat healthy, so i'm fighting off the urge to cook and devour some potatoes right now. the refrigerator is out of order, so the rest of the groceries are unavailable... just some potatoes, some onions, lots of coffee and some spices to be had. there was a box of cereal, too- but the ants found that first. lucky bastards.

i've been terribly moody this week (thank you, kevin, for putting up with me so nicely). this situation- this living abroad thing- seems to hit me in waves. mostly, it's the size of the thing. some days i forget there's anything out of the ordinary in my life. just going to work, having dinner; the usual. then other days i realize the giant stretch of ocean and land that separates me and my last apartment, and a million other familiar things. how is it i wound up here, anyway? and where will i land next??

i've always envied those people who make decisions easily. they go to a restaurant and before they look at the menu they have some idea of what they'll be eating. they go to college and they have a plan of what to study. they graduate and begin pursuing some next step. whereas i seem more to rely on the weather to direct my steps. now, i'm not saying this doesn't work out well for me, in the end. but, man, i think it just must feel great to have some inkling of what you want before it falls into your lap.

nostalgia is a funny thing-

the details our brains choose to hold onto, the insignificant moments that never leave our memory banks... and the strip of wallpaper or the smell of a bubbling pot that suddenly transports you back to another lifetime.

my cousin dee ann has been struggling with a lung disease for a few years now, and had quite a scare with a pretty big infection recently. we're all excited to see her gaining strength by the day now- and it looks like she'll recover from this bout soon enough. hearing this news was one of those things that made the size of my move feel massive.

and anytime i picture her, her head is thrown back and she's laughing hard. she has stunning eyes... like her mother's, and her mother's sisters, and her mother's sister's daughter's, too.

another cousin whom i never got to meet passed away alone in a hotel room recently, much too young. he lived most of his life estranged from his father who wanted quite badly to be there for him, but for reasons out of his control, could not. my heart breaks for my uncle, and for his son. a good person and a loving father- this isn't the easiest thing to come by in life. i often wish that i could have grown up with this man closer by for guidance.

and every time i picture my uncle, he's wearing sunglasses and has a tan from working the boats, and he's taking me to the corner store for ice cream in his smart convertible. he is grinning, and saying wise, encouraging things to a very young me regarding one's general outlook on life; like, enjoy every minute, and, don't sweat the small stuff.

there are many reasons the distance can feel like pain. i have friends getting married and friends having babies and babies turning into children and looking and acting more and more like their parents. i have my own parents with new puppies, and my own pets out there living it up without me! i have people i love dearly going through tough times. for many, many reasons, my longing to be back in the states can be overwhelming some days.

but the other days, i am able to focus on my own present, and hopefully on my own future. granted, i might have to make some decisions for that to happen, but when the waves of nostalgia settle, i am able to think about where my travels might take me, and what opportunities may come from this new job.

i enjoy the crinkles by the eyes of the ajumas. i like shopping for fresh foods at the big market down the street.

i have made friends with some shopkeepers. yesterday, i was walking towards home after work and a neighborhood boy was kicking a soccer ball alone as the sun was setting. without words, still ahead a distance, he kicked the ball to me. i stopped it with my left foot, return kicked with the right. he smiled huge and caught the ball with both hands (guess he was playing goalie) and ran off down the road.

while at a friend's place, three kids with little instruments put on a parade for us, and then we had a water gun show down! i put my feet in a new river. i cheered for korea in the world cup.

i'm learning how to be a disciplinarian. i'm reading a decent book, and have another good one in line. i am a student again. i am not the best writer, and that's okay. i'm not the best musician and that's okay. i'm not the best artist and that's okay. i do these things because i want to... not for outside approval or votes.

life is so small, and so fast, and so incredible. it's supposed to be overwhelming. it's supposed to be elusive. it's supposed to hurt a little now and then.

and later, there will be papaya.

Muses and Musings

When I was young I would spend most summer days running around "exploring" the woods and dirt roads throughout my neighborhood in Wakefield. If you lived in the area and had woods on your property, there's a good chance I've climbed one or two of your trees or skipped a rock on your pond. My favorite spots, fortunately, did belong to my own mom and stepdad, so it was no problem spending all the time I liked down by Thompson Creek and in a particularly hilly spot on the far side of Mom's acreage. Now, 30 and in Korea, I'm back to my old tricks. Don't go worrying, Ma; there's plenty of public property for me to explore here... and besides, civilians don't keep weapons in this country. But I digress.

Anyway I have mentioned her before: Mudung Mountain. Although I keep hearing about the amazingly fresh air to be had on top, both times I've gone, either city smog or nearby fires have affected the air quality. A haze lingered in the air and the sky was overcast when I went this past Sunday- with weather just cool enough to make a fair girl forget to put on sunscreen. I was in the company of two new American buddies, Karla and Meika. They took me to a quaint traditional tea house nestled in a rural area of the mountain, only a step off the beaten path (quite well beaten, in fact- the mountain being such a popular destination for locals and tourists alike.) I learned the proper Korean way to serve and enjoy tea; taking only three or four rounds to master the finish-in-3-sips custom.

Then we walked around some small farms and down a curvy two lane road until we reached a popular traditional Korean garden: The kind created with zen in mind... where poets and philosophers have come for centuries to find harmony in their surroundings so that they can better concentrate on their muses and musings. Unfortunately, that well designed tranquil atmosphere has turned into a sideshow, which means you couldn't sit in one spot and clear your mind anywhere inside this garden today any more than you could at your local shopping mall's food court. All the same, it was pretty cool to see the old masonry, bamboo and clay and stones.... actual fire pits built under floors for heating homes. The place was special, and I particularly enjoyed how it did have a general path to follow, but not a strict one- so we were free to run up this hill or play in the stream. I hunted for cool rocks or ancient artifacts... did find two pieces of broken pottery. It's most likely they are from some bowl recently purchased from the local five-and-ten, but I'm holding on to them just in case.

Next we took a short hike to a sweet resting pavilion that was surrounded by good smelling trees and flowers and such. There was one scent in particular I struggled to place that reminded me of home; after it bugged me long enough, I ran around sniffing every leaf in sight- and although I enjoyed that experience and now feel closer to my friend, Sinoun, who's always enjoyed an acute sense of smell, alas, I never could quite place that aroma. But I did discover wild mint, white jasmine, rose stalks, ants marching sideways, wild red berries, sticky grass, and those white flowers with strong stems we would tie end to end to make jewelry with- remember?

I continue to explore the city streets, as well. When I can't sleep or just have time to kill, I will often just follow the roads downtown and see where they lead. At night you can walk along the river that runs between opposing directions of traffic high above (the swishing sounds of cars and bikes blend nicely with the flowing water) and neon lights stand firmly overhead but move excitedly when reflected. Couples hold hands and whisper, friends lean on each other and giggle loudly. Shop keepers prepare for their customers or prepare to go home, depending on the hour and the business. Dirty independent cats dart between buildings... I have yet to see a rat. I find bottles and unwanted old sandals, mirrors, dressers, and coats piled on street corners, waiting to be claimed by one of the old, bent recycling collectors. Citizens of Gwangju are never hesitant to call a curbside a trashcan, so streets are often cluttered and unkept, but night workers do sweep through regularly so that early morning looks a sight better. It works out for us, though, as that it makes it easier to locate interesting alternative canvases. Sooner or later, we're bound to create something awesome.

But for now, I'm satisfied peeking under rocks and smelling trees- soaking in those things that inspire.

reflections on not taking advice and breaking a promise, and also, my muses

my teeth hurt. no, my jaw and head hurt and they know the teeth are to blame, and the teeth feel guilty. i was told 12 years ago i needed my wisdom teeth removed a.s.a.p., and we've come along this far together with no real problems. isn't it just like a tooth to wait until you're in another country to raise it's hand and tell you it's gotta go! but don't worry, i'm buying some pain killer and putting it off a little longer... i really want these guys to reach their fullest potential.

school is going very well. i'm getting positive feedback from the teachers, kids and my boss. i just finished grading my first speeches, and worked through the struggle of precise judgement on them (i am obsessed with fairness in this area)... so it took longer than it should, but i think it was worth it.

i have always been reluctant to become a teacher despite so many people pushing me in that direction- and i still have a lot of reservations about doing this in the states- but i really do dig the job i have here... and that's the most amazing part of this adventure for me. i have never felt this kind of creative freedom, personal connection, and immediate reward when it comes to the work i've done to pay the bills.

i'm meeting and getting to know new people every week: so that keeps me smiling, too. this situation has led me to interact with so many types of people i just normally wouldn't have ever met or put time in with... and i find the opportunity is making me appreciate those things that make us all unique even more than before. what i mean to say is, when forced to make friends outside of one's natural choices, the resulting diversity and new ways of thinking introduced back and forth can lead to some enlightening and unforgettable experiences.

the music is still going, but less frequently now. i mean, i'm still playing once a week for whoever happens to be at the german bar when i go in... sometimes a few people, sometimes a crowd: i am happiest when it's not all foreigners cause americans and canadians just don't offer a girl trying to share pretty songs the kind attention and applause that the koreans do. but i feel kind of guilty for so quickly abandoning my promise to ruby (that's the guitar) that i would play her every day. ***dear kt, insert your poem here*** but i've recently acquired some new music on the mac and feel inspiration slowly coming to a boil inside... so i hope soon i'll be making new songs.

ps- i probably wore out so fast on that promise because i was focusing on finding popular covers to play every day, and that just felt weird after a while.

kevin and i are also both poised to create some fun art as soon as the time feels right: we have the materials and the trash-turned-canvases... you just wait til that moment strikes! it's gonna be awesome.

by the way, i'm so thrilled every day that kevin and i are getting to do this together. i just wouldn't be having half as much fun without him; the boy is gifted at creating smiles.

that about covers things for now.

as a side note, though, let it be known there isn't fear or panic here at all over the tension with north korea (a lot of you have expressed concern).... every one seems confident that it's being resolved level-headedly and will not be the cause of ww3: i don't know if the american media is exploiting the story for ratings and making it sound scarier than it is, but we're all safe and comfortable here.

well, except for those damned teeth.

just an update

this week i took the 1187. the bus was completely full, so i was standing and giving my best death grip to the handrail, trying not to fall completely onto the other struggling passengers as our bus driver wheeled us rapidly and sternly around each upward curve around Mudeung Mountain. by the time we stopped about halfway up, i was completely nauseous. only a few steps off the bus i was inside a convenience store reminding me of old Satterfield's (the gas station in my hometown years upon years ago). people were sitting around small tables resting with cold drinks and snack foods like salted boiled eggs and squid jerky. i paid for a drink comparable with sprite and a large striped hat, and let my sea legs carry me down the busiest path. this turned out to be 'restaurant row'; along which sat at least ten or fifteen eateries all of which understood well the serenity produced by flat rocks, bare wood, and running water... i will show you pictures later... for now suffice it to say i would gladly sit for an eternity at any of these establishments as long as the weather kept.

the hat, my new best friend, protected me from a rather determined sun as i made my way along a path of rocks alongside a creek bed:

down to the creek. off shoes, off socks, into this bag. the water was freezing. three small girls played in some sitting puddles... tadpoles and baby mosquitos twisting bodies, no doubt. a wooden sign announcing random destinations and their proximity to myself at this spot. i chose the smallest number and followed the arrow. up, up, up, and up. a stairway of dirt, roots, and rocks. fully leaved trees assisted my hat brim's cause. passing couples nodded hello. some ladies were taking this small hike on in heels and sunday dresses. such bravery. i still didn't quite make it to the top before giving up and stepping down, down, down.

also this week:

i got my hair did... i keep finding kind ladies who want to help me over the language barrier.... kevin scooped me up in the German Bar and we devoured some Burger King with Chris, then visited Michelle (and neither were Gerkes, sadly)... i chatted with a korean man named B.J. Park who worked in coal mines in Germany, on the streets of Chicago, and who made and left a family in California... i had mashed potatoes.... i saw Robin Hood and shoe shopped with my new friend.... i found a good book.... i bought two t-shirts... i played music for the crowd, and they all sang along.... i laughed with the kids... i learned a few Korean words... mmmmm.

goodness.

The Best Night of My Life

I was out late last night, nursing jasmine tea and playing online at a 24-hour café downtown suggestively named Tom-and-Toms (inside of which there were both a small gym and a fish-tank smoking section.) Finishing up around 1:30 a.m. I stepped out onto a dark street shimmering with reflected neon signs in puddles formed by a good hour’s worth of rain drizzling from a black sky. After only a few steps toward home I realized the clouds were done fooling around: The day had been sunny and warm, so I was without an umbrella or sleeves and was not looking forward to the hike home in these conditions. That is why I decided to turn in when I saw the sign for the German Bar. I had been told that this was not a bad little business, with musical acts regularly and a decent foreign crowd. I was a little disappointed, though, as I passed through the double doors and realized that the crowd was freshly evacuated: Evidenced by empty and near-empty mugs crowded on most of the tables and cigarette butts pouring over ashtray edges. Only two Korean men remained, leaning together at the bar with drinks and smokes of their own. I guessed immediately that the elder was the bar's owner and the younger his employee. My first thought was to turn on my heels and apologize for intruding after business hours, but they opened their arms and welcomed me loudly and sincerely. Hello! Welcome!

I asked if they would mind serving me a single whiskey while I waited out the rain, and the owner bowed his head slightly while holding a sideways smile and walked around to the front of the bar, pulled out a chair and motioned me over. Once I inquired, this man claimed to be known as Casanova, and his employee answered to Playboy. The man's attitude was joyous, kind, playful and mysterious all at once. He spoke English quite well, and I was thankful to have this moment for some small talk with an interesting stranger.

He told me about his family: "My wife, she looks terrible, but my girlfriend is very pretty"

He told me his children are beautiful, and I asked how old they are- "Not as old as I am," he replied, "And so they are very, very young."

Finally, after feeling I had waited a polite enough amount of time, I asked if I might be allowed to play with the guitar I had noticed on the stage the moment I walked in. There was also a full drum set, an amp, and an electric piano that needed some repair. Of course, he said, and fetched the instrument for me. The fourth string was broken, but he had backups.

I laid the guitar on top of the bar, pushing aside some napkin holders and empty mugs. Mr. Casanova stood across the bar from me for the operation, and, when I asked if he might have pliers around, produced a small box of tools without moving an inch. “Happy to be of service” may be his motto in life… that or “It’s all good”. I don’t believe he ever stops smiling that slightly suspicious grin.

Both men watched me wind the string. Playboy had prepared a Jack on the rocks for me but seemed uncomfortable with the amount of ice he’d included, and twice fished an extra cube from a small bucket with tongs to carry carefully to my glass. Once I had a sip or two and got the guitar in tune, I asked what I could play that they might know. They both seemed eager with suggestions for a moment, but as soon as Mr. Casanova saw I was not from the same America they had piped in through the airwaves, he asked if I would play something of my own. “This is best, always,” he said.

I opened with my song, “Isn’t Any Town”, and when it ended I looked up and found both men completely attentive and breaking into cheers. “You are genius!” Mr. Casanova shouted. “Please more!” Next I played Bobby McGee, A Case of You, and Creep- all receiving enthusiastic applause along with vague familiarity.

Then we had a joiner.

A man walked in with longish hair under a smart green hat like Tom Waits would not shake a stick at. He sat in the chair on the corner between Casanova and myself, and seemed very pleased at our little scene. He had an almost permanent smile also, though more demure. He introduced himself timidly as Mr. Cho. I believe he was Casanova’s brother or cousin. I played more songs; Bizarre Love Triangle, House of the Rising Sun; one or two more of my own, and Mr. Cho constructed a small percussion set out of the napkin holders and mugs with chopstick drumsticks and kept my rhythm, even sang backup now and then. I was quite glad of his addition, and eventually relinquished the guitar to his capable hands. He played with thick calloused fingers, picking professionally and singing with strength and confidence. Beautiful, beautiful. Mr. Cho sang a handful of Korean love songs and tried to play songs for me to sing (oh, yes, at this point Mr. Casanova had grabbed the microphone and set it up between me and Mr. Cho) but I am afraid I let him down on my knowledge of lyrics by Peter Paul and Mary and, sadly, even Elvis Presley. (As a side note, I am continuously surprised by which popular American songs, shows and movies make it this far and which ones don’t- More on that later)

The two of us passed the guitar and the mic back and forth, making each song a duet somehow, although neither backup singer ever knew what the hell we were singing. Mr. Casanova and Playboy did not get back to work or clean up the mess of the missing crowd. No, they listened and clapped and smiled and praised. Mr. Casanova said “This is the best night of my life” a number of times until I conceded his point. Now a couple wondered in from the storm; a tall, pretty Korean woman in a bright yellow shirt and her date who seemed homely and smitten. They came in as I was finishing “Sweet Nothing” with Mr. Cho banging out the beat with his chopsticks. They, too, were happy for the surprise entertainment, and offered to buy me a drink in exchange for another song. Mr. Cho took the guitar and played, finally, a song I knew and knew well- and we rocked out to “What’s Up” by 4 Non-Blondes: When I got to the screaming parts, my female audience screamed with me.

When I played “Albatross”, Mr. Cho was touched and asked me to explain the love story. I began, but his English ears are not so good, and he soon gave up and stopped me, “I don’t understand,” waving his hands in front of him to signal my story’s end, “but I think I understand,” and he pulls both hands in to his chest, covering his heart, and nodding slightly.

Music breathed deeply and freely in the German Bar. Mr. Casanova disappeared into the kitchen twice, returning after a song’s time with a plate of fish and then a plate of eggs cooked with peppers, onions and cheese for Mr. Cho and me. I hopped over to the piano and made tinkering additions to Mr. Cho’s Korean songs. He ran over with the guitar and I played a song or two there on the stage, the piano missing keys.

When we struggled to think of words to a song together, Mr. Casanova pulled up the karaoke equipment and had us look there. We sang You are My Sunshine, Hounddog, I Never Promised You a Rose Garden, Friends in Low Places, House of the Rising Sun (again), a couple of Dylan tunes, Proud Mary… how I wish I could remember them all. I wish I could remember every tiny detail of this magical night.

Mr. Casanova never ceased his praise. He said he wants me to come back Friday and Saturday to play and meet some people. “I will introduce you! I have more friends than you!” he said laughing. “But my friends will be your friends. Maybe you come here every night. I will make you dinner- and if I am here, you do not pay for things. If it’s my staff, different story, but me- you are free”

The guitar was black. The eggs and cheese were delicious. The cheese, he said, was Korean- no added salt or sugar. I was wearing jeans rolled up, my black shirt with white flowers. Mr. Casanova commented on my Irish heritage. He would not give me a straight answer as to why his bar is the German bar. Mr. Cho said Mr. Casanova lived in Germany a while ago, but Mr. Casanova denied this claim with a shaking head and, “No, that’s what people tell me- but I don’t remember that. But I don’t know- Maybe.”

As we slowed on songs, Mr. Casanova ordered Playboy to get him his song. Playboy chuckled and set up the karaoke for his boss. The girl in yellow braced herself with fingers hovering next to her ears. Mr. Casanova gave a most magnificent performance of “I Did It My Way”.

5:00 A.M. rolled around. My glass was empty, my heart was full, my head was swimming and the rain had slowed. I decided to say goodnight to my new friends and trudge home.

I plan to return Friday or Saturday- who knows, maybe both, as he requested. I will play there again, with a bigger audience next time, most likely. But I am reluctant to return in a way. I don’t believe this experience there could possibly be topped.

The next morning, I learned Kevin had spent his evening making music also. He finished his first song. No, you’ll never hear it- but I did, and out of all the songs created that night, I do believe his will stand out the most in my memory.

But it’s like Mr. Casanova said: You must play your own song. This is best, always.

The Importance of Being Cute

cute |kyoōt|adjective1 attractive in a pretty or endearing way : a cute kitten.
This is one cute place.

Mind you, it's pronounced "cute-ah"

Of course the kids are cute- that's a given. I do award extra points to those children who wear small CEO style vests and jackets to school, those who carry pencil boxes that double as stuffed animals, and those who wear pigtails. They say cute things, and do cute things: But come on, they're kids; it's expected.

But you see, women carry tiny dogs in purses or in their jackets. If a dog has to suffer walking on a leash, it is comforted by a colorful sweater or small scarf. There are pet photography studios, and, yes, pet make up is available for the shoot. Big pink blushed cheeks on a white poodle; just imagine it! Across the street at the human photo studio, it would not be strange to see a grown woman posing holding a teddy bear. These same grown women wear ribbons and bows in their hair; big, bright bows, I tell you. They wear oversized shirts with pictures of animals on the front and colorful stockings underneath. The mini-est of mini skirts are completely acceptable, but showing so much as a collarbone (God forbid, cleavage!) is considered taboo! Boys and men are encouraged to dress up a bit, and the idea of America's "metro-sexual" is pretty much every guy in this city. Men's hair is often styled carefully, a full range of colors are comfortably draped around their necks: pink is not worn ironically. You know those polo shirts with the polo dude on the left? I've seen something similar is popular here- but instead of the little stitching of a man on a horse, it's a teddy bear in a flowered shirt, and it's three times the size. Cafes are decorated like sugar dreams and tree houses, ginger bread rooms and cartoons.

Cute is in the details. It's the red ribbon carefully tied around your pizza box, like a Christmas present, when you order take-out. It's the kittens stitched into the slippers sitting by the entrance to your private Wii-playing room. Cute is the handmade lap blanket available at restaurants for ladies in skirts to sit comfortably cross-legged on their cushion on the floor. Cute has draped itself over the walls surrounding the police station; a pastel colored cartoon mural depicting children offering officers lollipops, officers escorting smiling faces in the back of their little cars (presumably a misdemeanor), officers holding hands with old people. It sits on the dashboard of almost every car you care to walk by, as little plastic figures with moving parts; a tiny plastic potted plant with leaves dancing in the sun as it's owner runs an errand.

Almost every ceramic mug has a bunny or a bear on it. Most blankets and pillows feature flowers or plaid or.... well, nothing any 'good old boy' would be caught dead sleeping with. Scooters are plaid!

Women (or gay men) seem to be in charge of the interior decor of every place... Even the bank had soft colors and fresh flowers everywhere. Estrogen is flowing in the streets.

Standing in line at the Alien Registration Office, I asked Kevin to hand me some money, and this got a laugh out of our Korean Boss. How backwards, she said, for the man to hold the money! In Korea, that is the woman's job. Not bad, Korea. Not bad.

In America people are blowing money on tanning booths, sprays, and lotions while in Korea people are bleaching their skin: I suppose the grass is always greener. Plastic surgery centers are easy to find and cheaper than almost anywhere, I'm told. If you're not cute enough, you've got options.

I was given a big plate of five different fresh cut fruits compliments of the house at one restaurant where I didn't even order food: Cute.

DVD Bang: Private movie viewing room with big cumfy chaise, box of tissues for the sad movies, little pillows and a blanket, small ceramic village with ambient light above the furniture, a gigantic screen.... and in the bathroom at this place, a heated toilet seat, a hairdryer and mouthwash available. Cute.

Went to my first Korean Art Gallery. The featured artist has created huge ink paintings based on photographs of small children looking into a fish-eye lens. In some images the artist pulls the camera back so that you see a background or other figure in perfect perspective, but the main image still has that giant bubbly head.... In my favorite piece the bobblehead child is napping on the tummy of some giant monster. It's pretty great.... and you know what else it is? CUTE.

I walked into one of the music stores finally. I've eyed the displays many times, always wishing to go inside and play a guitar, fiddle, or whatever else they'd let me touch. Kevin found one he liked the other day with a cool lady running it who knew a little english. He took me there today and we played a few guitars. The lady clapped for me after a little picking, then took the travel-sized guitar I was playing with and strapped it on herself and played a little ditty that sounded a bit like old style country music. A little later, she opened a case and had me come see this hand made red guitar laying in the deeper red velvet lined interior of a very nice case. I pulled it out and gave it a strum- and it was amazing! It had a great density, a sweet sound... hand made in Korea. Kevin and I were both thrilled with it, and I decided it had to be mine. The price was more than fair, and after all, I just got paid!

What could I do? I had no choice.

It was one cute guitar!

And now, it's mine : )

cup-o-pizza, we wii cafe, and severed pig heads

so, last weekend we found the epicenter of shopping. there's this marketplace right off one of the subway stops that made my face light up like it was christmas. you've never seen anything like this! i haven't anyway... it was miles and miles of little stands set up with fresh vegetables, from commonplace to exotic; fruit of any and every kind; beautiful and colorful handmade candies and cakes; lines of fresh little fish tied together with yellow ribbon; prepared dishes you could buy by the pound; fresh cuts of meat sitting right next to, say, a severed pigs head..... and then there were socks and shirts and pillowcases and necklaces and baby clothes and quilts.... just stuff of every sort everywhere you look. most of the sellers worked very hard on their displays and made each product look beautiful and special... i wanted to buy a little of everything. people in the booths were chatting, laughing with eachother- little old women with those crinkles by their eyes that show evidence of a lifetime of smiles... in one alley a middle aged woman walking alone came up to me, took my hand and tried to tell me something... i couldn't understand all the korean she was pouring out to me, but her hands were soft and her eyes were kind, so i took it as something nice (though kevin believes she put a hex on me... but that's kevin). we watched one white and one brown puppy play-fight at our feet between a few vegetable stands as we were walking in one direction. we saw them curled up and napping together on the way back. in the end, though, i was too overwhelmed by it all to actually purchase anything. i will go again, but with a list of what i could use and a camera, too, so i can show you what i mean.

i went back to the pharmacy. kevin and i have been snot recycling centers all week; i thought i'd try out some ancient asian remedy for said problem. i went back to the little corner pharmacy with the nice ladies and was ready with my sign language. i tried out the word 'sinus' first, then 'runny nose', 'pressure'.... three strikes. so on to the hand motions. i ran my fingers from the bridge to the base of my nose and made as sad face. i pinched the very top of my nose, between my eyes, and made a moaning sound. i fake coughed. this time, all the kind ladies were into the game, but they all looked completely puzzled and made no guesses.... until one woman sitting behind me stood up and said in perfect english, "you have a cold?"

yeah.

and what do they give me? no special herbs to mash and put in tea. no weird root to suck on or put under my pillow at night. no powders. nope.

tylenol cold and sinus.

so there ya go.

the cold is really annoying- i'm happy it's trailing off and cannot wait until it's completely gone. it's had a way of draining all my energy since it showed up- so this has been a rather uneventful week all in all. if i wasn't working, i was sleeping.

we did manage to have a little fun tonight, though. we were finished a little earlier than usual at school, and went to a place called the 'we wii' cafe. there, we paid 3.50 a piece for a coffee and were shown to a private room where we could enjoy our coffee with our very own giant flatscreen and a wii. if you want an extra hour, you buy another coffee.

across the street from the we wii cafe there is a pizza stand that will sell you a slice for about a dollar... and do you know how they hand you that slice? do you, friends?

they do it steve-martin's-the-jerk-style, kids: that's right! it's pizza in a cup! color me tickled.

Lost in translation...

these are the days of the week as translated by our fancy technology. i'm not sure which is sunday and which is friday... but these are, indeed, supposed to represent the seven days:

1. Weep with Abandon

2. Like the Apple of One's Eye

3. The Scum of Soy Sauce

4. A Fiddlestick

5. A Sentence

6. Mad as a Hatter

7. Fifty Heads of Chicken

Ok, well, I'll see you guys next The scum of Soy Sauce! Can't wait!!!

try it- it's fun!

oh, yeah...

and the tea kettle sounds exactly like a harmonica.

details i've failed to mention

on any given busy street, there are carnival aspects- like a few "grab the prize" games, some dart throwing games, some test-your-strength games... some manned, some coin operated, and next to some games you'll find a little shop where you can use your winnings to buy giant stuffed animals or silly jewelry.... or giant combs, what have you.

'street vendors' often set up their booths featuring a small selection of hot food, surrounded by a small plastic tent, and there are up to four small stools inside, so you can enjoy your street snack away from the crowd.

now and then, there is samuri-movie-soundtrack style music playing over a loudspeaker that you can hear faintly anywhere in the city. i hope to see some ninja murders or cowboy showdown at some point...

gwangju is nestled in mountains, and there is a bus... bus 1187, which we can easily hop on by our house. it will drive us halfway up a nearby mountain and drop us off at a hiking trail. all along this hiking trail there are a variety of interesting little restaurants and cafes. oh, and it's spring... sounds like a good formula for a day off.

there is no shower stall in our bathrooms here, but rather a shower head attachment connected to the sink, and mounted above it. at first i was a bit put off, until i looked at it a little differently; we now have a giant shower stall that has a hand sink AND a toilet inside! mega convenience!

know those water dispensers with cold water and very hot water? got em. every-stinkin-where. so if you want hot tea or instant coffee while you wait or work in any building or restaurant- ta-da! presto!

saw in a window a t-shirt that read: DIRTY BURGER

those cool students i mentioned? yeah, they give a polite head bow when we cross paths in the stairwell. a bow.

all that stuff we read about people dressing very nice at schools... turns out to not apply at our particular place. most teachers wear jeans. the clothes i packed and wear daily look fancy and rich to the students... they don't believe me when i say i'm not rich, in fact. ah, well

there is pizza here, but corn is a standard topping and the fancier pizza tastes a lot like pizza hut...

cute little dogs and some raggedy cats roam the streets and survive well off of garbage.

recycling is standard here- everywhere and anywhere, expect to recycle.

um.............. very tired now... more later.

Um... Kevin Gerke is stinkin' cute as a teacher, and every coworker and student I have here has affirmed this. Also, Gwangju is beautiful.

What else?.... Well, our boss treated all the teachers to a delicious and unreasonably huge lunch today- they got us good and full, then served a bunch of other courses. I adore our direct boss, Me Yin, and her boss seems cool, and reminds me of dear Mrs. Gisela back home in St. Franny.

My students are awesome. They are bright, imaginative, studious, and funny. Once a week they have speaking practice and present a short essay they've written on a given topic: Today's presentations were on Something Ugly. Sure, plenty of students talked about jellyfish, mud, poo-poo flies, spiders, etc... but a couple of these guys pulled out deep issues, like nuclear weapons, fighting, money and murderers. They amaze me in new ways each class.

And now, it is officially the weekend! I haven't had that to be excited about since I was in high school myself. But here we are- two full days to play! YEA!!!

I get a little personal...

I played charades today with seven old ladies at a little local pharmacy. I walked in with the name of an over the counter birth control pill offered in Korea, thinking accepting this switch would be much easier than trying to fill my handwritten prescription from Atlanta. Birth control is very unpopular here- couples opt instead to use the 'gambling' method. Oddly, though, what they do offer does not require a prescription and is rather cheap- only about 5-8 American dollars per month! But this particular shop was unfamiliar with the brand I was informed by the interwebs was widely used by foreigners in Korea.... When I showed them the name of the drug, one woman behind the counter nodded and emptied two pills from a big jar into a little bag for me. I hesitated.. tried to communicate that it should be a month's supply... and the game was on. Imagine pantomiming "I need pill to take every day to NOT get pregnant" to middle aged and, shamefully, grandma aged Korean ladies... use hand gesture to indicate giant, round belly... then make a big X with your arms.... and they nod in understanding... offer Gas-X... I try again. One lady finally pulled out a little English, and translated that I needed something to take EVERY DAY.. and they looked puzzled: WHY everyday? NO PREGGO! They didn't understand pregnant, they didn't understand hormone pills, they didn't understand birth control... I was ready to give up when my English-dabbler suggests a fuzzy version of "Contraceptive?" And I beamed! Yes! Contraceptive! WTF? That was the word they got! Every lady cheered like we'd all just been awarded the SECOND showcase! And they ceremoniously handed the little box from one to the other until I received it, paid my 7000 won, and left victorious.

(don't worry, all my lady friends- i did do all that research i should and found this drug should be a seamless transition)

Meanwhile, my job is super. I was very proud of my students today: Now that I've got a firmer understanding of exactly what level each class is at (their age does not necessarily indicate their experience with the language), I am better able to offer appropriate challenges in their lessons, and recognize which classes need to step away from their steady progress in the assigned workbooks and focus on grasping a few fundamentals better before forging on. I made up an activity on the fly that involved unscrambling sentences, and, well, I'm probably completely boring you by now... so suffice it to say, I am able to have fun with these kids while being really creative in my approach and they're absorbing new information like dried out sponges and it feels good, good, good.

I think the challenge of suddenly living together along with suddenly living halfway across the world from all our other loved ones has proven more taxing on Kevin and I than either of us expected, but he's a really amazing person, and I try to keep up... so in the end, we're making it all work. It gets frustrating for us both in different ways and on various levels each new day. I know he's a more private person in ways, and will be relieved to have a room of his own very soon. We will both be glad when we get our first paycheck and can let out our belts a little. We're not suffering, mind you, but being extra careful, and going without some luxuries that would feel really comforting in this time of adjustment... but all in good time. Paint brushes, instruments, and a full pantry are just around the corner.

If I had my packing to do over, I would have brought a book full of pictures to put up of all of you I miss and a book of dvds.

I suspect I will be buying too many shoes after a while, too. Just mentioning. They're so freaking adorable here!!!!!!!!

For dinner tonight we ate BURGERS- and they were delicious. Gourmet burgers, handmade wheat buns, fresh meat mixed with egg, topped with bbq sauce a-la-perfection, bacon, cheese, fresh tomato, lettuce (FRESH LETTUCE!!!) and onion, and hot delicious FRIES and a side of pickled veggies and peppers. It totally satisfied a little craving and more, and cost about $8.... came with a bread and honey appetizer and a big fancy hazelnut coffee after. Oh, Korea, how you treat my tummy good.

In the mean time, Kevin has found a Korean Mama- She throws food at him everywhere they go- even peels his little baby oranges for him and sends him home with pastries. He's getting totally pampered at his new school- You can probably find more on this in his blog... but it's a pretty sweet deal for both of us, really.

We really lucked out with this city and this school... couldn't ask for a better fit.

Ah, ok- g'night, or g'morning- whatever the case may be.

P.S.- if you were interested in writing, it is best to send to to us care of our school; here is the address: Jisan Hangil English School, 154-2 Dongmyeong-dong, Dong-gu, Gwangju, South Korea, 501-813

it's like building a house

with your two hands, a pile of bricks, and a bucket of mortar you bought at half off on the street corner.

you just do your best and hope it'll hold.